This segment will show you how to sew a skirt w/o a lining. I also have another DIY skirt with with a lining, which will be up in a week.
Initially, I began the skirt project with a lining , but half-way through I figured it might be slightly advanced for a true beginners sewer.
Before beginning your sewing project, please read the items below:
1- Fabric must be a 100% mid-weight cotton or muslin. Don’t spend a ridiculous amount of money on designer fabric because this your FIRST skirt and you may need some practice sewing before becoming comfortable with assembling a skirt.
2-Print out the worksheet located below: It will outline every step and it will be a lot easier to go through each step if you have it outlined on paper.
3-This video provides step by step instructions for the How To Make A Pencil Skirt tutorial. You may use this demonstration to assemble most if not all skirt patterns. The anatomy of a skirt doesn’t change- only style details do.
4- If your using the How To Make A Pencil Skirt video to sew this skirt please do the following before laying out and cutting your fabric. I provided two options the regular high-waist version, which hits the belly button and the low-waisted which hits your hips. The low-waist skirt sits pretty low against the hips. Please cut the yoke on scrap fabric and wrap it around your waist to see if the style is to your liking before putting the fabric onto pattern and cutting. Once you cut fabric you can’t go back 🙁
Match fabric selvage to selvage. Selvage is the uncut portion of the fabric with the least amount of stretch
Lay the pattern pieces as illustrated or instructed per your pattern directions.
Front of Skirt is placed on the fold
You’ll need 2 fabric pieces for the yoke and facing and one piece for the interfacing. You will be using muslin as the interfacing. DO NOT use non-woven iron-on interfacing. Interested in purchasing interfacing , please visit this link.
Remember to clip into the notches, this is your matching guide.
Using tracing paper, trace the stitch symbol onto the wrong side of the fabric. Mark an X with your tracing wheel or draw a circle symbol as shown .
Pin the interfacing and facing, wrong sides together.
Sew 1/4” from the raw edge. You can also use the edge of your sewing foot as a guide.
Lay the front skirt pieces over the skirt back, right sides together, pin and sew using 5/8” seam allowance.
You may finish the seams using any of the techniques outlined in this link.
Place the yoke over the top edge of the skirt right sides together, make sure to match notches. The yoke is curved, so add as many pins as required. This will help to keep the edges of the skirt and yoke aligned and in place while sewing.
Because your sewing on a curve, take your time sewing I can’t emphasis this enough. Stop in between to make sure the fabric remains flat and does not gather towards the yoke. Pull the skirt away as your sewing to keep the fabric flat and smooth.
Pin the facing to the yoke, right sides together and sew using a 5/8” seam allowance.
Before turning the facing over to the wrong side of the skirt, you will need to cut down on some of the bulk. Cut away at the 1/4” stitching that was initially used to attach the yoke to the interfacing. Snip small notches into the fabric w/o going into the seam. This will help to release some of the tension.
In order to avoid the yoke from rolling over, we need to top stitch the facing. Take the seam allowance and pull it towards the facing ( this way the seam allowance is away from the the yoke and keeps it flat) Top stitch about 1/8” away from the seam. TIP: Take your time
Pressing: Place a piece of silk organza or light muslin and press the facing using steam.
Come down 5/8” from the top edge of the yoke and CB of the skirt and either use a baste stitch or pencil to draw a guide for the zipper. For a more detailed invisible zipper tutorial click here.
Mark off where the pull tap begins on the zipper
Place the zipper in the center of the skirt with the tab facing down. Match the marks on the zipper to the basting stitches on the skirt and pin. The coils of the zipper will touch the basting stitches on the centerback .
Use an invisible zipper foot to sew ( If you need a better demo, pls watch my video on how to insert an invisible zipper)
Match the zipper to the opposite side of the skirt, before sewing, pin to make sure the yoke seams match, if they don’t match, adjust the zipper by pulling it pass or below the the guide on the skirt. Once the yoke seams match, pin and sew.
Pin the CB together and stop right before the self-facing begins. Use the 5/8” seam allowance to sew.
You will have a slight gap in between stitches and that’s fine.
Sew down the pull tabs with a regular zipper foot
Use the highest stitch setting on the machine and sew a temporary stitch to the remainder of the skirt opening. Do not back stitch.
From the circle or X symbol on the skirt stitch 5/8” towards the facing- back stitch to reinforce.
To release tension, clip into the corner w/o going into the stitching.
Use the stitching symbol to baste the self facing to the skirt.
Turn the skirt right side out and machine stitch using a permanent stitch through all thickness ( check to make sure the self-facing sits on the left side)
Snip the threads after sewing. Use a sewing needle to push the thread onto the wrong side of the skirt and make a knot to secure the ends.
Remember the raw edge of the hem must be finished before continuing with the next step.
Turn up the 2” hem and use a hemstitch. This is a quick and easy way to hem stitches in place. Finishing methods video click here
Start by tacking down the facing and then bringing the needle through the hem. Stitch diagonally to left, picking up a few fibers of the main fabric
Stitch diagonally again by picking up a couple of fibers close to the edge of the finish
Tack down self facing
You may finish the yoke facing any way you like, however I prefer to use a hong kong finish. I’ll show you how to set-up the bias strip to the facing. If you like the look-you can watch a detailed video of the steps listed in this link
Before moving forward finish the center back of the skirt. I used the zigzag and pinking method.
Stitch 1/4 into the lower portion of the waistband and trim down with pinking sheers.
Mark off 5/8” on the wrong side of the facing seam allowance. The goal is to stitch on that red line. The red guide line will sit 1/8 away from the zipper coils. if the raw edges of the yoke and facing are perfectly aligned you’ll end up with a gap once the skirt is turned to the right side.
Note how the raw edge of the facing is extending outside the edge of the yoke.
Using a regular zipper foot stitch on the red guide.
If your having a difficult time getting a close stitch, please hand stitch, go back at it again to reinforce the area..don’t forget to back stitch.
If needed cut away some of the bulk at the corner of the yoke, making sure not to cut to much into the seams. Turn to right side and use a point turner to push out the corners, you may also use a yarn needle. ( Yolk has to be pressed again for a nice finish before wearing)
Add the hook and eye and your done