From top of cap measure down the depth of the cap and place a dot
Use half of the bicep measurement and Extend a line from the dot
Label Bicep Line
Use half of the underarm length minus 1 1/2” and place a dot.
Using the half of the elbow measurement, extend a line ,place a dot and label it elbow line.
Please refer to the chart below for your corresponding measurement : From the dot at the end of the elbow line measure down the depth of the dart and dot.
Open the draft and crease elbow line at the fold.
refold upper portion of paper and pin.
What you’ll notice is that the pattern paper is shifting the center fold line below the elbow line because of the the dart overlay, however The upper part of the sleeve sloper remains the same.
With the draft in this position, crease the new center fold line from the elbow down towards the wrist. Label NEW center fold line
Using the bicep to wrist measurement, plus 1/2” for ease and place a dot. From the center fold line, use 1/2 of the wrist measurement, extend a line out, dot and label wrist.
Connect wristline dot to bicep and continue to the top of the paper,
Please note: Elbow line may change, but this will not affect the fit of the sleeve.
To develop the sleeve cap, crease the upper section of the sleeve in quarters by matching upper section and center fold of sleeve to the underarm.
To shape the cap sleeve , measure up from the bicep/crease line half of the cap height plus 3/4” and dot.
Measure in 1” from the underarm bicep line and place a dot.
Use a ruler and connect dots with a broken line
Measure in 1/4” from the centerfold capline and dot.
Use a ruler and connect the capline and crueaseline dots
Come in a 1/4” from the bicep underseam and place a dot
Please take note of the placement of the french curve ruler at the cap and underarm before drawing the curve.
With the draft folded, trace the underarm bicep and elbow line seams through the opposite side.
cut away at the underarm and waistline only
Open draft and pencil in the traced bicep and elbow line.
The old fold line will represent the grain line
Close the dart inlay, Add 1/2” to the underarm seam and cut away